A First: French Seams + a Giveaway!

A First: French Seams + a Giveaway!

I had the opportunity to sew and style the Crystal Cove Cami and Mountain View Pull-on Jeans by Itch to Stitch. See how I styled each piece three ways in my Make It Wear It post on Itch to Stitch blog. Read on to learn about my first experience with french seams.


Kennis was kind enough to provide coupon code good for ANY of her patterns for me to giveaway. So comment below with your favorite seam finish to win a free Itch to Stitch pattern!

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I don’t know that I’ve purposely avoided french seams, but this is my first project trying the technique. Typically I serge my seams, mostly because I prefer to work with knits and a serged seam stretches with the fabric. Sometimes when I am working with wovens the garment is lined so that finished edge is protected so that no finishing is truly needed. Other times I just serge the woven seams because I really don’t mind the look of a serged seam in general. I have utilized other finishing techniques like flat felled seams and bias bound (Hong Kong) in the past, but for some reason I never got around to french seams.

ITS Set Back Port

I’m not sure why I thought to sew french seams for my recent make of the Crystal Cove Cami by Itch to Stitch. It wasn’t due to the fabric as I’ve sewn this exact crepe from LA Finch Fabrics (in a different colorway) before. It probably had something to do with the fact that are just two seams for this cami. Or maybe the fact that I didn’t have any green serger thread.

For once I remembered to take photos along the way so I thought I’d share.

 

Step 1. Sew your seam with the seam allowance allotted but with wrong sides together. It feels weird, but go with it.

Step 2. Trim your seam allowance by about half. (I had a 1/2″ SA so I cut it down to 1/4″).) This is to ensure that no raw edges can be seen past the final stitching line for the seam.

Step 3. Now flip your fabric so the right side are together and sew a hair wider than half your seam allowance so that you capture all of the seam allowance inside the seam.you now have a little flap of seam on the wrong side of your fabric.

Step 4. You’re done your outside seams looks like any seam!

*You could also topstitch the french seam to tack it down.

ITS CC close cup

That’s it! It was actually very simple on this top, though I could see it getting trickier for curved seams. Sure you have to sew each seam twice, but if I had used my serger I would have had to sew then serge and that requires swapping machines so technically the french seams were quicker. I’m not 100% sure I’ll use french seams for all projects, but I will definitely use it for light weight fabric garments that aren’t lined going forward.

Don’t forget to share your favorite way to finish seams for a chance to win a free pattern!

And go check out my Itch to Stitch makes and snag coupons codes for LA Finch Fabrics and Simply by Ti  here !

25 responses to “A First: French Seams + a Giveaway!”

  1. Well I have a new-to-me serger that I am hoping to learn to thread and that will be my go-to seam finisher! I absolutely love the cami pattern. Have a good weekend!

    judy

    Liked by 1 person

  2. My go to finish is to serge my seams,but some fabrics or garments look better with French seams. I just recently made up two Free Range Slacks from Sew House Seven, and learned flat felled seams and really liked the result.
    Thank you for your give away, it’s a great way to try a new pattern!😊

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Cute top! Perfect for a French seam. I also like this seam finish and I don’t think there’s anything difficult about it, unless your fabric ravels a lot, which might lead to whiskers peeking out. For pants, casual tops and unlined skirts, I love to flat-fell the seams.

    Liked by 1 person

  4. I actually own this pattern and it is on my “to sew list” for my husbands family reunion. It (IMO) is better than the Ogden Cami. I love the back and also the fact that french seams are in the instructions. Your’s loos FAB!!!!

    Liked by 1 person

  5. Honestly I just used serged seams because I am lazy… but lately I’ve made alot of patterns that have you do french seams as well so I’ll follow the pattern instructions if it is called for.. otherwise.. serged for me.

    Liked by 1 person

  6. Love the back detail on the cami! I’m a novice at finishing seams. My favorite (only way) to finish seams currently is using the zig zag stitch on my machine. I saw that TopStich Atlanta has a new course on finishings that I am seriously considering. Thanks for the great review!

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  7. I don’t know if I have a favorite finish! Depends on the fabric and project. I think your French seams are lovely, and I do try to use those when sewing with delicate fabrics. The finish is so nice. But if serging were appropriate for every project, I’d probably choose that because I am a little lazy and always short on time, haha!

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  8. I usually serge my seams, but I’m working on a French seam idea because I want the top to be reversible.

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  9. I think im just a simple overlock and pressed seams kind of person.
    Havent done a princess seam yet so that might be a bit intimidating one day 😂
    That colour cami looks amazing on you !!

    Liked by 1 person

  10. This looks doable. I’ve been reading about French seams and just have to go for it. I’m doing a lot of things I thought I would never do because it was ‘too much work’, but when you mess up some beautiful fabric you can’t get any more of, you learn the hard way to make a sample so that won’t happen again. I currently prefer using my serger, and the Hong Kong finish method. I am looking forward to trying the French Seam method. Thank you for making it look simple.

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  11. I have started to do bias binding around the inside edge of pockets and the facing on trousers and love the finish – I want to do it on everything

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  12. I am very new to sewing and do not have a serger so zigzag has been my go to. I have only just recently experimented with french seams and just love the look. I am looking forward to trying it out on a pattern, (P.S. I also love Itch To Stitch patterns.). Thank you for the tutorial and the giveaway.

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  13. I am very new to sewing and do not have a serger so zigzag has been my go to. I have only just recently experimented with french seams and just love the look. I am looking forward to trying it out on a pattern, (P.S. I also love Itch To Stitch patterns.). Thank you for the tutorial and the giveaway.

    Like

  14. I love using French seams for chiffon. I don’t mind serged seams either on most fabrics. Now off to try that pant pattern! Love Itch to Stitch patterns.

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