Fabric Mart Guest Post: Jumping on the Bandwagon: Vogue 9253
If you are a part of any sewing online community you've already seen this dress all over Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest or blogs. It seems everyone has been making Vogue 9253 this summer!
Thankfully so, because I almost missed out on this pattern. It wasn't that I hated it, I just didn't love it, but that all changed after I saw a few versions of it on actual sewists. It has been so popular that it has been selected for several sewalongs, patterns of the month and even McCall Pattern Company itself is holding a V9253 contest (details here-you still have time).
Though the recommended fabrics include crepe backed satin, rayon challis, broadcloth and lightweight jersey I chose this fun abstract Ikat print ITY knit. Unfortunately, this knit has already sold out. Below are a few other knits I think would work well, a similar Ikat print ITY in gold and black (here), a bold bright leaf print ITY (here) or a navy tie die jersey (here). If you prefer to work with wovens I spotted a pretty floral print with a black background in challis (here), a multicolor outline floral challis (here) or a black and white diamond print challis (here).
This pattern is a bit of a fabric hog needing up to 4-1/8yd for the midi and 5 yards of 60" fabric for the maxi depending on your size. That said the most time consuming part of this dress was cutting out the fabric as the maxi has to be cut out on a single layer to accommodate the full skirt. Perhaps this is why I made the error I did. I cut the bodice piece twice without flipping the pattern piece, meaning that I had two right front bodice pieces instead of a left and right. HEADSLAP! Considering I already squeezed 4-1/8 yards worth of pattern pieces on 3-3/4 yds of fabric (last minute project change) I knew I did not have enough fabric to cut another bodice front.
After weighing my limited options, I ended up sewing two of the larger scraps together and cut the pattern piece from that patchwork of fabric. Sadly the only way the piece would fit was for me to cut the piece crossgrain. I really HATE that I made this error because I really love this dress and this will always bother me. So learn from me and a always double check your pattern layout when you are cutting single layer fabric! The only saving grace is this pattern is so bright and busy that I'm hoping only the most advanced sewists will notice.
As long as you don't make any silly errors like I did this Very Easy Vogue pattern lives up to it's category. The most difficult thing would be the bias binding if you're not familiar with it. I actually omitted this since I was working with a knit and simple folded under the back neck hem. I also omitted the zipper as I can pull the dress over my head.
My bodice was a little long making the plunging neckline much too low. I'm not sure if the bodice was truly too long for me or if the weight of the ITY pulled it down. I'll find out when I find the perfect challis for this pattern and make it again. Whatever the reason, instead of shortening the bodice I decided to add an 1" wide elastic casing. This solved two problems 1) it shortened the bodice by an inch and 2) it helped to support the weight of the full skirt. I also added belt loops at the side seams and center back to help keep the tie ends in place since I did not sandwich it in the center back seam. I like side loops for sashes anyway.
Many may pass over this dress due to the the cleavage baring neckline but this can be easily modified. You can either cross the front bodice pieces over each other creating a slightly wrapped bodice or you can sew the bodice pieces together at the center front to shorten the deep V.
Aside from my error I am pleased with the dress and can't wait to make the midi version with a challis.
Have you sewn this pattern? Is it on your to sew list?
Pattern: Vogue 9253Pattern Description: Semi-fitted back zipper opening, attached self-tie and length variations. Plunging necklineSizing: XS-M and L-XXL, I sewed a mediumDifficulty: 2/easyFabric Used: Ikat print ITY from Fabric Mart (sold out - see similar)Does it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope? YesWere the instructions easy to follow? VeryLikes: Plunging neckline, maxi length, dolman sleeveDislikes: None.Pattern alterations or any design changes made: I omitted the bias tape and zipper and added an elastic casing and belt loops.Would I sew it again? Yes I want to make the midi version out of the suggest challis.Would I recommend it to others? Definitely.Conclusion: Great caftan-esqe dress pattern for summer that can be transitioned into fall. I also believe depending on fabric choice this can go from swim cover-up to semi-formal gown.