Colorful Houndstooth: Simplicity 9701

Overview:

Skill Level: ★★

Sewing Time: 2 hrs

Pattern Rating: ★★★★

Pattern:

Simplicity 9701 is a bodycon dress with a rounded square neckline. I love that it features a center back seam that provides a better fit than a back cut on the fold.

I gave this pattern a 2/beginner skill rating because of the facings, which may seem a little harder than a hem band or a fold over hem for the neckline. I actually think a facing or partial lining is easier, but to each their own. Mimi sews a full lining using powermesh in her video tutorial which creates a built in compression - like a spanx. I chose to stick with the facing, mainly because I didn’t have any power mesh on hand, though I did use a thinner ITY like knit instead of a the main fabric.

I sewed a size 20 based on the finished measurements of and my body measurements of 45”/40”/47” . I thought this would create enough negative ease, but I found myself taking in both side seams by about 3/8” . Fit is a personal preference, but even after I took it in it still wasn’t bodycon tight. Ponte is also a stable knit, so in a stretchier knit like a ITY or double brushed poly it would definitely need to take it in a bit more. I think I'll leave this one as is since I didn’t add the mesh and wear it more as a work dress. It was also a bit long in the shoulder, so I took the shoulder seams up a bit too. Next time I’ll start with an 18.

Fabric:

This ponte is from Fabric Mart. I choose it because I love houndstooth and the teal color made it stand out from traditional black and white print. I prefer a rayon or rayon/poly ponte but this is a polyester. I just find that polyester pills more so I’ll see how this holds up.

Modifications:

I decided to try something with this make…adding a built in shelf bra. I wasn’t sure if the wide square neck would cover bra straps (it does) so I thought being able to wear the dress with out a bra but with some support would be great.

To do this I added 1” in length to the front facing piece, serged the raw hem then created a 1” casing for elastic by folding up that raw edge and using a zig zag stitch. Then I cut a piece of 1” wide elastic cut to a couple of inches less than half of my underbust measurement and inserted elastic to the casing, being each suffer to keep it in place before sewing the front to the back facing.

Unfortunately this didn't offer the enough support. Next time I'll use a compression mesh, cut the lining one size smaller, and use elastic around the front and back.

Summary:

Pattern:  Simplicity 9701

Pattern Description: Easy to sew slim fit dress comes in two lengths and features square shape neckline and wrist or elbow length sleeves.

Sizing: 8-16, 18-26

Does it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope? Yes, sorta

Were the instructions easy to follow: Yes, but I didn’t use them.

Would I recommend it to others? Yes, just be sure to size down.